Hunting with a muzzleloader, shall we say, presents some unique challenges that other firearms hunters just don’t have to deal with.
Bright muzzle plumes, slower reload times, and limited ranges are just a few of these. In some ways, to hunt effectively with a muzzleloader you need to think like a bowhunter.
With that said, here are a few tips to make your hunt as successful as it can be.
Switch to Black Powder Substitutes (and Be Consistent)
Black powder is expensive, hard to find, and finicky to store. The fouling from black powder is also a nightmarish thing that will cause flash rust in a matter of hours.
There are some purists that still love “holy black” and it’s necessary for flinters, but if you, like most muzzleloader hunters, are shooting a caplock or an inline, switch to a substitute like Blackhorn 209.
It is more consistent, cleaner burning, and easier to store. On top of that, the fouling (though still noxious) is not quite as bad.
Just one thing: whatever you load, do it consistently to the grain, as very small changes in bullet weight or powder charge can seriously throw a wrench into accuracy.
Spend Some Quality Time at the Range
Much like shotguns, muzzleloaders are more patterned than they are sighted in. You need to develop a load that works for you consistently at a set range. Determine what that is, stick with it, and follow that protocol when you are in the field.
Ditch the Ball, Shoot Full-Bore Options Like Thor Muzzleloader Bullets
Are you still shooting a patched round ball? Well, 1850 called and they want their dated technology back.
It’s traditional, and patched round balls are actually pretty accurate within 100 yards, but past that they yaw and roll.
Full-bore bullets like Thor muzzleloader bullets are better on every front. First, Thor bullets are full bore and have an expanding skirt, which means you don’t need a patch, and they produce a better gas seal.
This means they shoot hotter, flatter, and more accurately. But beyond that, Thor muzzleloader bullets are spitzer bullets which means they are inherently more accurate than patched round balls. They also have ballistic tips which means they are more effective at energy transfer and deliver greater stopping power.
Get some and try them at the range. You will thank yourself later.
Invest in a Muzzleloader Muzzle Brake
There’s a reason we sell muzzleloader muzzle brakes and as you can imagine it really doesn’t have that much to do with recoil.
No, as you might imagine (or may know from experience) muzzleloaders generally don’t kick that hard. But they do produce really big muzzle plumes, and therein lies the problem.
The thing about these muzzle plumes is that they are opaque, white, and obstruct your sight picture, making it difficult not only to see if you actually hit your target, but whether or not you will need a follow up shot.
Our CVA muzzleloader muzzle brakes not only reduce recoil, but they also substantially reduce the time it takes your muzzle plume to disperse, so you can get a read on the target more quickly to see if you hit it as well as if another shot will be needed.
Use Muzzleloader Speed Loaders
Carrying your powder loose and loading a charge as needed using a measure may be the traditional way to handle things, but when you’re hunting and need a follow up shot, fast, it’s just not the way to do things.
Carry muzzleloader speed loaders, pre-charged with powder and a full-bore bullet like a Thor muzzleloader bullet.
This saves you time weighing/measuring the charge, and using a full-bore bullet eliminates the patch, just one more piece of an already intricate puzzle.
Muzzleloader speed loaders will save you time in the field and may even help you have a more successful hunt.
Have a Spare Muzzleloader Ramrod and Bullet Starter
Muzzleloader ramrods break. We get that. That’s why we developed a three-piece aluminum muzzleloader ramrod that’s stronger and therefore better not only than wood ramrods, but fiberglass ramrods as well.
Also, since it breaks down into three pieces, it’s easier to pack it into a possibles bag, where you should also have a spare muzzleloader bullet starter, in case you break your main one.
Remember, two is one and one is none.
Mark Your Ramrod
When you have a moment, get either a permanent marker or a hacksaw and your muzzleloader ramrod.
Spring the rod to make sure your rifle is unloaded, then mark the ramrod at the point where it meets the muzzle. Use the permanent marker on wood or fiberglass, or score a little mark with the hacksaw if the rod is aluminum.
This is your loaded mark. If you ever need to check really quickly to see if your rifle is loaded, just spring the rod and let it drop.
If the mark is flush with the muzzle, you have an empty gun. If the mark sits above the muzzle, you have a charged bore.
Be Prepared for Wet Weather
Inline muzzleloaders aren’t as prone to the faults of sidelocks and wet weather as they could be, but a wet bore is still a damper, literally, and even modern black powder substitutes are unreliable, at best, in inclement conditions.
So, get something called a muzzle mit, which is basically a little rubber sleeve you put over the muzzle of your rifle when it’s wet or raining. This will help make sure that no free moisture gets in the bore.
Take Care of Your Gun
Lastly, it is imperative that you keep your gun clean. Don’t leave it loaded, and clean it thoroughly every single time you drop the hammer on a charge. Even the fouling of black powder substitutes is highly caustic and will damage your rifle, and quickly at that.
And when you’re done cleaning, thoroughly dry the gun and condition the bore with a treatment like Thompson’s Bore Butter, which will help seal it off against moisture, protecting it from damage.
Gear Up with Muzzleloader Accessories from Anarchy Outdoor
Hopefully you put some of these muzzleloader hunting tips into practice this year and enjoy a fruitful season. We hope you found them helpful!
Here for muzzleloader accessories? You’re in the right place. Shop our collection and if you have any questions get in touch with us at 833-980-0333.
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